Simon Thomsett

Category: Raptor Expedition | Date: May 01 2009 | By: simonthomsett

Starting from Kenya, we were already ill-prepared for an overland trip in terms of specialized kit such as metal planks, chains, off road tyres, sliding solar panels, multi-battery arrangements, roof top tents, internal lighting, inverters for computers, fuel and water pumps, water filter systems, etc. What we put together were “Jua Kali” (quick fix) versions of the above. For example, I used an old electric fuel pump to push water into a metal canister in which is a single water filter. The can and filter I bought in Nakumat Nairobi. The whole thing worked and it cost about $20 to make. Unfortunately the mechanic I asked to mount it in the car welded 5 pieces of angle iron on to the roll bar and nearly destroyed it. There was a lot of miscommunication with very poor work being done on the car as few understood the concept of traveling far beyond home. “No problem … when it breaks we fix it again.” With this assurance we set off.

I did get a few things well done. The spare fuel tanks mounted under both front seats are very slick and useful. I got a passable roof-top tent for Laila to use, while I use a tent on the ground, both made in Nairobi. I put together a two-ring gas cooker and a 12kg gas cylinder for the kitchen. You open the back door and it becomes the chopping board. These work well, but some other things have not.

The Car

A green two-door Range Rover built in 1976 with a bizarre paint job. It has a knobblie crocodile skin-like surface. Everyone from confused traffic cops to street kids or safari guides marvel and stroke the surface. I am proud of it. How this came about I am not sure, but it works very well in camouflaging the car and reducing glare. I have a feeling it was an accident and that it is actually an awful paint job. I like this old car. It has a classic shape. The long muzzle curves down at the front and give an unbeatable forward view.

The gear box is four speed. You get into fourth gear quickly and stay there, hitting 85kph comfortably or 100kph downhill. It is in four-wheel drive all the time. The low ratio is very solid and will get you out of most problems. The pneumatic operated diff’ lock is tricky to use and can get stuck in it.

The engine

The original V8 petrol engine may be reliable and powerful but gives poor mileage and was replaced with a trusty Nissan 3.2 D - “D” for diesel. I opted for the non-turbo version. Turbos burn out and leave you stranded. I do not care to go fast, much preferring good torque and slow speed and reliability. This Nissan engine allowed a power steering pump to work on a newer Range Rover Power steering unit. It worked well until we got to Lusaka, then it packed up. Now it is manual and building up my pecs.

The tyres

Of all the decisions I regret was the choice of very expensive tubeless tyres that have persistently let us down virtually every day of this trip. I hate them for they are utterly useless off-road, despite being filled with equally expensive glue guaranteed to withstand 6-inch nails.

This Range Rover has, in my opinion, one of the most comfortable rides of all 4-by-4s. The coil springs all-round give it a smooth ride, although in Arusha we beefed up the rear suspension with Mercedes springs inside the original coils to take the weight of the clobber that we amassed.

Most people taking on an overlander trip like this take too much. We could easily have cut back on a few things but we are laden with cameras and work-related equipment. We are not concerned with getting from A to B across the continent, but in natural areas and so have to do a lot of off-road driving. As we crossed into Botswana and Namibia we were amazed at the camper bakkies (pick-ups), and trailers originating from South Africa. I scoffed at them at first. Air-conditioned, tinted windowed new 4-by-4s with every domestic convenience on board is not my idea of a safari. The camp sites, too, in this southern section are neat electric lit communes that I at first abhorred. Why drive 100 km to go to the bush and sit in a parking lot looking at other campers? The roads too are smooth and endlessly signposted and a new experience for me where such things in Kenya are mostly non-existent.

As this journey has reached a point where we tire of inconvenience, I now grudgingly accept the plug in the wall, tapped water, rubbish bin and even the loo and showers and neighbours. Preserving some sort of resilience I will never use the open fire pit provided! I now look sideways at the new campers and trailers that surround me as I write this blog.

The Car, surrounded by Kokerbooms (Quiver Trees) in Namibia

Tags: camping with convenience, kokerbooms, the expedition car