Monthly Archives: March 2009

Floods, Mud, Lions, and Lakes

From Ruaha we went to Mbeya where we spent a night before crossing the border into Malawi. I really enjoyed Tanzania. It is a really beautiful country with vast forested mountain ranges. Traveling through Malawi was a last minute decision but it was worth the trip. We didn’t have much time to explore as we […]

Ruaha National Park, Snakes, and More

The vast Ruaha National Park and its associate reserves cover an area of some 40,000 square kilometers. One of its previous wardens, John Savage, was a raptor enthusiast. He had noted that Ruaha was a possible over-wintering spot for Eleonora’s Falcons and so I have always been curious to see the area. Our drive into […]

Mikumi National Park to Iringa

We got the car back from the garage and were almost ready to set off again. Our last day in Arusha was spent getting bits and pieces done, and we finally set off mid-afternoon. We drove for 100km along the Pare Mountains and saw five Lanner Falcons along the way and ended the day spectacularly. […]

Arusha and its surrounds

Leaving Manyara, the road is smooth and fast. That was good, for my car was suffering with crippled rear suspension and broken rod mountings. The roads of Serengeti and Ngorongoro and the Mara previously had added their toll. Craig Blackbeard is a pilot working from Arusha and deeply interested in raptors. His passion led him […]

Tree-climbing Lions and Crowned Eagles in Manyara

We descended Ngorongoro in thick mist to a small town called Karatu, where I had the brakes fixed. Laila had a fright when a quick baboon leapt through the window and leant on her shoulder to grab some food in the front of the car at the park exit gate. We then descended the rift […]

Ngorongoro Crater

When we exited Naabai Hill Gate in Serengeti we continued to drive through the park across vast flat short grass plains. The Ndutu Plains are one of the most notorious grazing lands gaining minerals from the rare carbonate volcanic ash soils spewed from nearby Ol Donyo Lengai. They harboured tens of thousands of Thomson’s Gazelles […]

Across the border in the Serengeti

After all the delays to the expedition, we were dreading the border crossing from Kenya into Tanzania, sure that something was going to go wrong to stop us finally progressing. But, after two hours of running around sorting paperwork for the car and getting our passports stamped, we were through. It felt like a champagne […]

Where are all the vultures?

We were finally ready to go! The expedition launched from Nairobi on February 15 and there was no going back (we hoped). We started with a few more days in the Mara to see if we could catch any vultures. Again, we found no dead animals around, making it impossible to try to catch the […]