Simon Thomsett

Category: Costa Rica | Date: Aug 29 2008 | By: simonthomsett

On the night of 24th June 2008, Laila, Guido and I went to an innocuous little pond just off the side of the road on Friends of Osa land. It did not look promising but the first step off the road revealed a Red-eyed Tree frog. This is the quintessential frog of Central America. Just like his photo in magazines, or on T-shirts sported in down town Nairobi, these medium-sized frogs are stunning to look at. Cartoon-like Kermits, with huge sticky hands and enormous globular crimson eyes. Along their sides is a series of stripes, and sometimes, on their backs, are a few white spots. Stretched out a big one would be about 10 inches or 25cm, much bigger than you think. Bunched up they are about 10-14cm.

Red-eyed Tree Frog (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

The swamp had risen, coming up to belly button level.

In the torch light, you could see eyes twinkling on the water, under water, in the reeds and in the palm leaves above. Water spiders, often 25 cm across stood dangling their arms in the water to catch insects and even small fish.

Fishing spider (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

The Marine Toad is a melon of a toad, huge and tame. The Smoky jungle Frog equaled it in size, but had bigger eyes. A young caiman floated a few feet away, and beyond it a much larger one was in the light. In one spot we saw 5 Cat-eyed Snakes, and all around were mating Red-eyed Tree Frogs. There were yellow frogs too. On leaf frond tips hung bunches of clear jelly housing a nursery of tadpoles. Occasionally a large log would nudge against the back of my leg sending me into spasms! I once slid down the back of a giant Nile Crocodile and it is an experience I have never forgotten. I had to remind myself that the caiman is small and local crocodiles very seldom hurt people.

Baby caiman in the swamp (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

A small squirrel-sized Mouse Opossum sat in the base of a palm frond chewing a palm fruit, and nearby a possible Four-eyed Opossum. A Parrot Snake caught by Guido put on a threatening show, and finished this off by biting him fair and square on the hand. It took us by surprise, and none of us thought to help him as he calmly prized it off his bleeding hand.

Parrot Snake (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

(Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)
A young Iguana sat with a large insect on its head, and a few meters further on a large menacing spider was consuming its prey.
Every step you took showed a new animal. Having been to a few of the world’s wildlife “hot-spots” I have never seen an example where so many species of animals occurred in so small an area no bigger than a garage. Although very tired we persevered to another stream to find the Glass Frog, a transparent frog in which you can see its heart beating. We saw many things but sadly not this frog.

Glass frog (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

Share This

Tags: caiman, Costa Rica, frog, Snake, Swamp

No responses yet

Category: Cataract Operation for Rosy, Crowned Eagles, Raptors | Date: Aug 28 2008 | By: simonthomsett

Rosy the male Crowned Eagle with cataracts was taken out of his shed three weeks ago. The measurements taken by Dr Tony Walia and Dr Nonee Magre at the Kikuyu Eye hospital were circulated by email and we received the great news that Ingeborg Fromberg, the head of Acrivet (info@acrivet.eu) had a few suitable lenses and other vital equipment which she wished to donate to us. It only needed a suitable box number and physical address to send it to. As I live in the sticks, the chances of having a postman driving out to my house carrying a parcel were pretty slim. Dr Nonee Magre offered the Kenya Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (KSPCA) as a suitable address.

Nonee phoned me back this morning (27th Aug) saying that there had been a bit of a delay with regard to being able to do the surgery at Kikuyu Eye Hospital. Dr Walia reassured me that the matter would resolve itself in a positive way. The centenary celebration of the hospital are coming up soon, and the operation on an eagle is mostly recognized as a wonderful PR opportunity, but a few things needed to be done in order to placate a few.

Unfortunately it looks like the operation date may have to be pushed a few more weeks!! I do not have a few more weeks. Rosy, as always, seems to contrive to destroy my plans. The last few months have been tough enough making the resolve to leave, releasing birds, and giving some away. Rosy, the pillar of my life, is unquestionably my nemesis too. He is my brother. I love him. He will win, he always does. It is a typical love / hate relationship.

Girl (Photo by Dave Richards)

We are looking for another place to do the operation while we wait for the supplies to arrive. There is a more brutal approach to cataract operation involving a large incision of the cornea, and a manual extraction of the lens. Without the pin-hole type surgical equipment of today, this is how cataract surgery was done in the past. I even understood that the ancient Egyptians did something of the sort. But this would be a pity given that we do have the specialized equipment here.

Naturally, I could not help but wonder if the CITES regulations that successfully hindered his temporary export to South Africa for the operation could not at this late hour be reversed. But sadly there is no point in even trying, given that I still have not had a response from either South Africa or Kenya. Many have said it would take many months to get the permission, and the chances were slim.

I wrote a letter to my Mum the other day regarding Rosy and I deleted a cheesy comment that he was a part of my left arm. My Mum would scoff at that, as much as I do. It was not what I wanted to say. I dislike a spiritual approach regarding animals. No mystical gaze into the horizon to view my spiritual totem, and to seek their guidance etc. No there is no rainbow warrior insight, no heighten perception, for living with one eagle throughout my life.

When I went into Rosy and Girl’s shed to get him, he was a beast. Snatching and ripping at me and lifting three grown men off their feet in a single bench press of his legs. Biting and yelling at us while we put jesses back on him. I dreaded this moment for weeks and he did not disappoint us. We were pouring sweat and mid way through it I thought of my Dad, who passed away last year and how this would greatly amuse him. As a measure of his respect for Rosy, I noted in his old filing cabinet a file named “Rosy”. There was none of any other bird, animal or even of his children! He had written a script around Rosy, and a boy (me), and Rosy was one heck of a tough customer. Even now I reckon my Dad would have nothing but admiration for Rosy, as he sits outside on the lawn on his perch looking immaculate and proud. When Girl calls from her shed, Rosy calls back. The call is “This is my land”. Just as a lion’s roar. He owns with Girl a territory here and defended it for 16 years. I recorded him a few days ago and if I could figure it out I think I could share his call on this blog. Perhaps later.

What I meant to say to my Mum was that Rosy and I are back to our old relationship. I knelt down to pick him up talking to him the other day. He talked back. It is a very un-eagle like series of notes, but they portray worry, curiosity, concern, confidence and even gratitude. He cannot see a thing, not flinching even if I move my hand quickly to within an inch of his eyes. So when he steps gentle up onto the glove, he has to know it is there. He has to know it is me, for he hates others. The moment he is back on my arm he is happy. For fun I might work him into a pretend fury by growling at him and saying “Rosy is dozy and sometimes very dim!” The reaction I had from him 30 years ago has not changed one iota. Wham! He slams the glove. With evil passion he pummels the length of the glove making me wince in pain. Why I do it I do not know. But if ever I need a reminder of just how strong he is I do this (only with the 3 leather layers plus tyre reinforced glove). With his face an inch from mine he tends to bump his bill on my cheek or nose. He always did, and he does so now. We walk off, he perfectly balanced, my arm held in the same way that decades have taught us. I move, turn and place him back on his perch in a completely non-thinking manner and he like a dance partner follows my lead. You would not know he was blind. To say we are “one” is taking it far too far. But I should bet that few people have had relationships this close and this long….with anything, human or otherwise. Yes there is a sympathy, a prediction down to the finest movement of what the other thinks. It would be mad not to imagine that this is so.

Magu in the sun

In an hour I shall be putting Vero’s, the Verreaux’s Eagle on a plane flown by Tobi Dunn, to be delivered to Martin Wheeler at Tassia Lodge in Ill Ngwesi, Samburu District. I have never met Martin. I knew of him a few years ago when I met his teacher the late Ron Hartley. Ron was the leader of Zimbabwean raptor work and certainly the greatest falconer Africa ever produced. Ron said Martin was a wild one, but a good falconer. I am trusting you Ron.

Right now my heart is down and I am desperately worried that I am doing the right thing by leaving next month. But I have to remind myself that I have no choice. Life depends upon work and income. This has come to an end and what I am doing, as much as it destroys me to do it, must be done for the birds.

Share This

Tags: Crowned Eagle, Girl, Operation, Rosy, Vero's

8 responses so far

Category: Costa Rica | Date: Aug 27 2008 | By: simonthomsett

Visitors often make the mistake of rushing things. I took the next few weeks slowly. Some days it poured rain continuously and there was no choice but to stay house-bound learning to play cards and painting. I got to meet more people and socialise more often in those few weeks than in the last few years at home. Following monkeys was never boring, as there was always a special moment on each outing. We saw Spectacled Owls, leaf cutter ants in droves, Morpho Butterflies that flashed super-natural iridescence on forest paths, humming birds that stood fixed in mid air and then fled as fast as a bullet. Of plants and trees there was no limit. Fungi of weird shapes and colours sometimes offended by looking like orange plastic bottle tops.

Humming bird (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

On one occasion, Laila decided to go straight up the mountain onto paths cut by less than legal loggers to a place she had earlier got lost. She had been turned around and confused up near the summit and as night-fall approached, had made a super human rush to get back. She got “in touch with her survival instincts”, a state of incredible fitness that is sparked by necessity and a little fear. It is a state that I have sometimes had to draw upon. It allows that extra mile to slip by easily, the scratches to be unnoticed and the aching limbs to plough on unheeded. Looking around me on top of this same ridge, I could easily see how one could get lost. Everything looks the same. On that day, we sat on a clear opening overlooking a ridge that Laila had previously seen Swallow-tailed Kites from. Then we heard the distinctive call of a falcon. On the far ridge top was a dead tree on which two falcons sat. The binoculars and camera lens were unable to distinguish between the Bat Falcon………..or the very much rarer Orange Breasted Falcon. I hinted at Orange Breasted (or OBFs if you want to be cool) and Laila refused to accept this, saying I based my argument on pure wishful thinking. Unfortunately, Laila has a keen eye for details and is never led to conclusions based on hope, and I had to grudgingly concede that she is probably right.

Morpho Butterfly (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

Corcavado National Park and the surrounding buffer area comprise the largest contiguous primary forest in Central America. In this forest, actually outside the park but in the buffer zone, lives one pair of Harpy Eagles. The details of this single pair are enticingly cryptic. There is an understandable reluctance to make the site common knowledge. Jim Tamarack gave me a T shirt with Mision Aguila Harpia. Censo Anual de Aves Osa 2005. (Harpy Eagle Mission. Annual bird census, Osa, 2005), financed by a few key people on the penninsula for the conservation of Harpy Eagles in Cocavado National Park, Golfo Dulce Reserve and the Osa Peninsular. At that time, one juvenile, presumably the chick of the pair, was seen at various sites. It is interesting that this one bird was so often seen as it implies a good method of survey was used, and sadly that there are very few Harpies.

Black Hawk

Laila and I hatched the obvious solution. Across the border in Panama, the Peregrine Fund (Fundo Peregrino, the neo-tropical branch of the same organisation with which I worked) had captive bred Harpy Eagles for some 10 years for release projects in Panama and Belize. The project was a success, but they are unfortunately closing down the operation this year which leaves the Osa out of luck. I emailed Angel, and Rick Watson and tried to get to either Panama or Belize to see their operation. But being a Kenyan citizen can be difficult for traveling and it proved not to be possible in the end. However, whatever the situation it is clear that there is a large area of suitable habitat (some 15 to 40 pairs could theoretically live here), and very importantly, the current move towards the creation of forest corridors the enlargement of the park, the inclusion of reserves and the overall decrease in the incidence of gold mining, timber and poaching could mean an improved environment for Harpy Eagles.

Toucan

Laila took the lead in this, writing to Adrian Forsythe, and spurring Guido in his position as science director for Friends of the Osa to resurrect the former interest in this magnificent eagle. First, there should be a re-count of all possible nesting sites. Secondly or in parallel, there should be a public awareness campaign to bring on board the residents of the Osa. Then one can make a decision regarding the captive breeding and re-introduction of the Harpy Eagle, if at all it is necessary. As of now, Laila is keeping these objectives alive. If I could I would dearly love to work on such a project for this species is so similar to my favourite animal, the Crowned Eagle. Crowned Eagles would do fine here. I cannot imagine why the Harpy Eagle does not.

Share This

Tags: Costa Rica, Harpy, Osa

3 responses so far

Category: Costa Rica | Date: Aug 26 2008 | By: simonthomsett

Five of us, led by Guido Sabario, walked 18km into Corcovado National Park, to stay 2 nights at Sirena, the park’s central HQ. I was impressed by the lack of vehicle access to the park. It was only accessible by foot, or by boat or plane, no cars. To back-pack without park or local community guides among potentially dangerous wildlife is a luxury these days and virtually unacceptable in now over-regulated Africa. Guido was a valuable source of knowledge, especially on reptiles. He leapt upon every snake he saw and pointed out reptiles and amphibians. Costa Rica is an amphibian/ reptile haven, and while these were largely ignored in Africa they came to the fore here because they were so numerous, noisy, colourful, diverse and sometimes huge! Guido pointed out a poison dart frog that shimmered a phosphorescent green.

Poison dart frog (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

The reptiles had their fair share of lethal contenders, first and foremost the dreaded Fer-de-Lance, a pit viper responsible for more deaths than any other animal here. You do not mess with the Fer-de-Lance because it lies like a Puff Adder and chases like a Mamba. It strikes readily and boots are the formal wear. Being an old bush hand familiar with snakes, I wore sandals at first and scoffed at the chances of being hit. But as the days went on, I saw more snakes than one ever would see back home. I began to notice that macho young men strode about in gum boots and wore a huge panga (Machete) that hung from the belt almost to the ground. “Good for whacking the Fer-de-Lance” said Juanky. We were up in the hills one day and I was briefly allowed to lead the way when I saw, to my horror, that my left sandal was coming down in slow motion upon the back of a Fer-de-Lance. God intervened and I was able to step away, as if walking on thin air, and the snake slid away.

Fer-de-Lance (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

During my stay, a young woman had been bitten on the toe a few kilometers away, and had collapsed within less than an hour with blood coming out of her nose and mouth. It may not have been a Fer-de-Lance but one of the Coral Snakes, one of which we came upon at night walking back through the forest. Laila, in flip flops, nudged the 2ft snake into the open and was angry that she did not have a camera. Despite having a very similar snake (Gunther’s Coral Snake) as a resident in my guest house back home, I was alarmed at the much higher chances of being bitten by a snake here and started wearing more appropriate footwear.

Corcovado NP(Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

We spent only 2 nights at Sirena in the Park, but we saw a good number of wild animals. The trip started out well with a large pug mark of a Jaguar walking near the beach along the main road long before we entered the park proper. The very reasonable pre-booked fee of $10 per tourist (as apposed to 4 times that in Kenya) allows one in at a small guard post. The Coati’s were very tame in the park and foraged around, digging and rooting up insects, crabs and tubers with their pig-like snouts.

A rather mangy Coati (Photo by Laila Bahaa-el-din)

The route follows along the beach much of the time and rivers and tides had to be negotiated carefully and to the hour, lest one get stranded for 6 hours. Huge crystal clear rivers of fresh water poured into the ocean, and here Caimans and the American Crocodile live in large numbers.

American Croc

My most memorable moment was seeing the retreating rear end of what looked like a medium sized hippo entering the forest from the beach, accompanied by a second, smaller rear end. I was amazed that the female Tapir with her baby stayed there eating unconcerned by our party of five, all of us clicking away with cameras. There was no question of danger, and although a Tapir can weigh some 700lbs and possibly flatten a human as readily as a rhino, they do not even think about it. They stood there eating with their elephant-like short trunks curling around the vegetation. This allowed us to approach to some 25m. They stepped back into the forest, and were gone from sight. Vanished without a trace or hint of disturbance to the foliage. No smell either. We saw many of their tracks, four sharp toes arranged around a small pad, but no feces.

Tapir

Of raptors we saw relatively few, but plenty of vultures eating dead fish on the beach, possibly poisoned by a very obvious red tide off shore. The terrain frustrates the viewing of birds high in the canopy above. But we did see the Double-toothed Kite following, as Laila predicted, the Squirrel Monkeys. The Crane Hawk was identified only because it copied the behaviour of the Harrier Hawk. It was seen flying in a sloppy manner and clambering clumsily on branches before sitting and craning its head about listening. The face was long and thin, and its legs (doubled jointed like the Harrier Hawk) were also long. It had a bit of a waving crest, but otherwise it seemed to follow the same colour scheme as a few other raptors here. It had a black/dark grey body and a white tail band. (as does the Black hawk, Great Black Hawk and Black Hawk Eagle). I was feeling unwell at the time and when it came to the opportunity to foot it around the heart of the park on the second day, both the weather and my energy were not favourable. I began to accept that the chance of seeing Jaguar, Puma, Ocelot or jaguarundi was going to be in the hands of the Gods. If they cared to share, it would come to us. Rain in a forest jungle denies one the senses of sight, hearing and smell.

Double-toothed Kite

Share This

Tags: Corcovado, Costa Rica, Osa, Raptors, Snake, Tapir

5 responses so far